Dawn breaks on my first full day in Buenos Aires. I return to Palermo, and spend the afternoon searching for the Museum Xul Soler, dedicated to the sigular genius of that name. The heat remains oppressive, the pavements bake.  Sweat runs everywhere, covering everything and everybody. I never get to the museum.   Because I… Read More Cosas bonitas, y las porteñas guapas.

A mugging in San Telmo. It’s 3.30 at night, my end of my first day in Buenos Aires.  It’s been a very long day on the plane, in the airports, banks, taxis, cafes, hotels, apartments and casinos.  We are finishing our last beers, in Placa Dorrego.  This is a charming leafy square in the heart… Read More A mugging in San Telmo.

11.30am (local time) We have arrived.  This is Argentina.  In South America. Quite south in South America in fact. Although, having said that, you could go a lot further, and still be in Argentina.   Further south still lie vast tracts of pampas.  Then tundra, volcanos and polar landscapes,  mostly also in Argentina.   It becomes… Read More Getting there….

11.45pm Sunday Night.  Madrid. The first leg of my outward journey has gone smoothly.   I reached Madrid intact and on time.  I have a long 8-hour stop-over here but even this turns out to be a blessing in disguise.  I am very kindly met at the airport by my old schoolmate Will Moreton,  then… Read More (Not) getting there.