Samuel Brocus View of College Green

18th century Georgian Dublin architecture tours

Every Wednesday afternoon here in Dublin, I lead a tour on 18th century Georgian Architecture, for that august body, the Irish Georgian Society.

For many, Ireland’s capital is synonymous with the Georgian period, c1714-1830,  when so many of our great buildings were made.  It was an era when the leading citizens, landowners and political classes, felt confident enough to commission magnificent public buildings, vying with London to be seen as a major 18th century European capital.

On our walking tour, we do a little circuit of the southern half of the city centre, looking at some of the best masterpieces of the Dublin Georgian style.

I’m particularly happy to be doing this tour for the Irish Georgian Society, (IGS).  For over 50 years the IGS has been fighting the good fight to protect and preserve these beautiful buildings, through grants, conservation, education, scholarship and advocacy, often in the teeth of stern opposition, and sometimes even downright hostility.  I’ve long been a fan of the IGS, so it’s both a pleasure and privilege to be doing this tour in collaboration with them.

We commence our tour, each Wednesday afternoon, just after 2pm, from the front steps of the IGS own headquarters,  the lovely City Assembly Rooms at 58, South William St, a splendid old building, and itself a masterpiece of the 18th century Georgian style.   We also end the tour back there (at the IGS) and so our final “sight” on the tour will be the battered wonder of the Octagon Room, the first ever purpose-built space for exhibiting art anywhere in Britain or Ireland, (predating both the Royal Academy, and the Royal Hibernian Academy).

Tickets for the tour can be purchased either in the IGS bookshop in the City Assembly Rooms on South William St, any time prior to the tour.  They can also booked in advance through their nice website here- IGS site.

We hope to see you on tour some time.

 

Samuel Brocas The College of Surgeons

Samuel Brocas:  View of College of Surgeon’s, St Stephens Green, one of the stops on our Wednesday walk.

 

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above & below: James Gandon’s Four Courts, one of the highlights of our walk. (photos by the author)

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Brocas 4 Courts & Liffey

The same building in a view by Samuel Brocas, looking positively Venetian.

Samuel Brocus View of College Green

A final view by S. Brocas, featuring the old Parliament builings (by Lovett Pearce, Gandon and others, and (to left) Trinity College, with architecture by Sir William Chambers and others.   Both places featuring on the IGS tour.

The website again, to view the tour and/or book advance tickets is IGS 

Thank you for reading. Social media buttons at foot.   Please feel free to comment, re-blog, share or Tweet.

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next Dublin Decoded walk: medieval gates, walls and towers, a funny kind of treasure hunt.

the next Dublin Decoded Walk “Medieval Mass” tour takes places  on Sunday 29th of June.

Following the great success of the last  Medieval mass Tour – run as a special one- off fund-raiser for Focus Ireland back in May-  Dublin Decoded are delighted to announce this fun, sociable and highly engaging tour now takes once a month this summer.  The next tour is scheduled for Sunday, 29th of June.  Meet time 13.45.  (1.45 pm)

Medieval Mass works a little differently from other Dublin Decoded tours.  Yep, it’s even more fun.   It’s a sort of treasure hunt,  walked together with our “treasure map” in hand,  learning how to read the city street-scape and other clues, to seek out and trace the lines of the old walls, towers and gates of the ancient city.   (Special adapted maps are provided for the duration of the tour)

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Tour details: In 1660, the year of the Stuart Restoration,  Dublin was still a densely crowded network of ramshackle medieval mass, scooped out with only a network of tiny streets, courtyards and alleys.

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Over the next 150 years, it would transform into one of the finest neo-classical cities in Europe, as it did so, much of the old medieval city was knocked down and swept away, not least by the developments controlled by all-powerful Wide Streets Commission.

Samuel Brocus View of College Green

So how can we look back today, to read, imagine and visualize what was here before?

This tour offers a guide to reading the medieval past, and medieval city scape,  locating the ancient walls, gates and towers of medieval Dublin.  There are many fragments and many clues, if we know where to look …

Section of Medievel city:map, Dublin Decoded   IMG_5930

Join us, as we walk the route of the ancient city walls, gates, watchtowers, prisons and ancient churches of the old city,  map in hand,  discovering half forgotten stories, from daring escapes to devastating explosions, from war and famine to plague, invasion and revolution.

Fee is €20 p/p. Concessions for artists, OAPs and students just €10 p/p.

Please note all are welcome but for everyone’s comfort, places limited to  18 max, so its both advised (and much appreciated) when places are reserved in advance.  Booking and/or any inquiries via an email to  dublindecoded@gmail.com

For groups: this tour and most Dublin Decoded tour are also available, on flexible dates of your choice, for schools, language schools, corporate and any other pre-booked group.  (Group rates €100 up to 8 people,  €160 for 9-15 people)  Again pre-booked and bespoke tour inquiries via an email to:  dublindecoded@gmail.com

For both scheduled tour and for pre-booked group inquiries, please put the tour title “Medieval’ in your email subject header, along with your name, numbers and preferred dates where possible.  Thank you.

The next Medieval mass tour is scheduled for Sunday, 29th of June.  meets 13.45,  walk starts at 2p

All Dublin Decoded tours are also available, on flexible dates,  for pre-booked groups, via inquiry to dublindecoded@gmail.com

Drop us a line anytime.  We look forward to welcoming you on tour.

TripAdvisor

For reviews of Dublin Decoded Tours on TripAdvisor, see here.

You can see the full range of Dublin Decoded tours on our homepage:  You can also join the Dublin Decoded Facebook page, a handy way to stay appraised of updates, photos and comments there.

Arran at NGI cUp

 

Arran's Dublin Decoded Bussiness card  obverse

22 Dublin Decoded Arran Henderson

special evening tours of National Gallery, Dublin, Thursdays, evening 17th July, & more onwards.

Special Evening-time Tours of National Gallery,  1-2 Thursday evenings each month-  join the famous and highly rated How to Read a Painting tour,  a discussion workshop that has been called inspirational by many visitors, a highly accessible, fascinating, fun introduction to the great mystery”  of reading subjects and symbols in Art!    Read more below, or see our rave reviews on the TripAdvisor website.

The next How to Read a Painting Tour is confirmed for next Thursday evening, (6pm) the 17th of July, only €15-20 p/p, or €10 concession.  You don’t need any background in art or art history (that’s our job) All are welcome, and you can pay on arrival, but please book yourself in, via the free to use event calender here.

Or if you prefer, just send us a confirmation email with “Painting Tour Nat Gal 17th July” in the header, to dublindecoded@gmail.com.  Please say how many visitors if more than one.    More tour details below.

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This popular workshop – How to Read a Painting-  aims to make the things trained art historians think about, accessible and user-friendly to all.  The tour and tour features lively discussion.  It explores symbolism and iconography, looks at both religious iconography and secular symbolism and explores in general how artists create meaning in art, using not just tokens and symbols, but also everything from light to landscape, from gesture to perspective.  You’ll never look at pictures the same way again.

Gabriel Metsu

Open to all but Booking is both advised and appreciated.  The easiest way to book is to use the free-to use booking calender here. 

There is lots of additional deatils and information on the website, but if you do have furher queries, these can be sent by email,  to dublindecoded@gmail.com   (Clear subject header much appreciated)    Please put “Nat Gal March 29th evening Tour” in the subject bar, if you are booking,  and say how many people you are booking for. Thank you!

We also run this tour for groups, on flexible dates, so if you have a school/company group or book club you’d like to bring along.  You can email the same address, and we will set up a tour any Thursday evening for any pre-booked group, just for you.   Approximately 14-18 places available each tour.

Arran Art at NGI9 w Dublin Decoded

Arran Art at NGI14 w Dublin Decoded

Afternoon tours also scheduled: most Tuesdays afternoons,  running at the earlier time of 2.15 -4.30pm, €15p/p.  The tour can also be booked for a custom, pre-booked group, such a school, language college, work outing or book club.    Just send an email to dublindecoded@gmail.com   stating numbers and preferred dates.  Thank you.

Arran Art at NGI11 w Dublin Decoded

Our blog Dublin Decoded Tours  has details of this tour & all our tours in general description.

You can also see notice of individual tour  dates for all future History, Art, Architecture, and sociable walking tours of Dublin announced on the Dublin Decoded Facebook page.

Join us sometime.

48 Arran Henderson Dublin Decoded walks

a magic map, scholar’s sketch of ancient Dublin and special tour. Next date Tuesday afternoon 5th August.

Arran's B card landscape

A small but significant detail above,  from the lovely little 1904 map by RISA scholar and historian Leonard R Strangeways.

This magical map, will be our guide, (along with yours truly) to the Medieval to Georgian Walk of Dublin on Tuesday afternoon (2.10pm)  5th. of August.  We use it because it’s one of the best and clearest illustrations to understand the shape and form of the medieval city.   The walk on Sunday afternoon is €20 p/p  (€10 concession rate, for students, artists and anyone else who can’t afford €20)

For more illustrations and a brief discussion of the material covered, see here. 

For the full range of Dublin Decoded history, art and architecture walks and events, see here.    As you’ll see, we run both scheduled walks, to which everyone is welcome, or also bespoke walks, for birthdays, for schools, colleges, language schools, a group of friends.  Or a treat for your book club?

To see some of our 5-star reviews on TripAdvisor, see here.      To inquire about a pre-booked group walk, or about joining a scheduled walk, drop us a line anytime at dublindecoded@gmail.com.      Don’t forget to mention your preferred tour and preferred dates in any correspondence, thank you!   But most of all, just try to come along this Sunday 29th June.  Hope to see some of you there. -Arran

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Propaganda & Recruitment. WWI Posters.

First World War recruitment pictures.  From an exhibition last year at the National Museum at Collins Barracks, Dublin.   All of these posters (bar one, aimed at Irish exiles in the North of England) were used around Ireland during the First World War to drive recruitment.  To mark the approach of the onset of World War I and raise funds for Focus Ireland,  we’re doing a WWI walk 30th March. Meet point is the Campanile in Front Square, Trinity College, at 1.45 pm tomorrow 30th March.   Suggested contribution €15, all proceeds go to Focus Ireland.  Join us there.  Right, back to 1914-18!  Although Ireland this period was of course still a part of the UK, for very specific political reasons, unlike England, Scotland and Wales, it did not have conscription imposed on it.  Hence the need to recruit, and these posters of course.  Despite that lack of compulsion, for all sorts of complex and varied reasons, many many tens of thousands of Irish men were prepared to, indeed did volunteer and serve.  These images sought to encourage that “impulse”.


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00,000 went in the end, dwarfing the numbers who fought, for example in the Easter Rising 1916 or even the Irish War of Independence.   

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as you see from the two examples above, some posters sought – through colour, and various emblems and devices- to emphasize the “Irishness” of the individual men, and the regiments,  fighting in Northern France, Flanders, Gallipoli and elsewhere at that awful time.

I have no inside information on this, but we could hazard a guess that these particular type of posters were considered safer and less contentious in those areas of Ireland where people were pretty sick of the English.  A vast majority, around 80% – of Irish people wanted Home Rule at this stage.   (Many had been voting for it and campaigning for it for generations)

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Another category of poster (above) acknowledged (even celebrated, albeit in highly simplistic terms)  the distinctive traditions of the disperate parts of Ireland, England, Scotland & Wales.  But at the same time it also sought to emphasize the essential unity and “togetherness” of the parts, standing shoulder to shoulder of course, putting aside “minor” differences,  in order to concentrate on the real business in hand-   fighting the beastly Hun.    This poster above therefore, may have “played” better in (mostly) staunch Belfast, rather than, say, West Cork and Kerry, which were (in general) far more Nationalist in outlook.

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Another category of poster (as I see it)  simply sought to appeal to the manly virtue of the reader.  It more or less says:  “Go on, have an adventure; there’s a great scrap on;  don’t be a bloody whimp”  (are you a man or a mouse?  etc…   )    Given our much changed culture and also what we know now about the carnage and horrors of WWI, this might seem daft.  But one should not underestimate the changes in culture and mindset wrought by the last 90 years.  Men, and especially young men, were indeed bred, educated and primed for tremendous risk-taking, sacrifice and the rest.   – Dulce et decorum est pro patria mori…  and all that.

This other poster, just below,  plays on much the same emotions…

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Regiments, units and battalions were of course organized and recruited on a regional basis.  I was interested to see this map-poster, above, clearly showing the boundaries for army/regimental purposes in Ireland. The name of nearly all these regiments are still remembered.   Let’s jus take one, albeit very distinguished example,  Anyone who read my post on the Anglican church of Saint Nicholas Of Myra, in Galway, will know its the regimental chapel of the Connaught Rangers.  They fought from Napoleonic times until after WWI.  Just checking their Battle honours even on Wikipedia maks it clear just how integral Irish officers and men were to the British army and (by extension) to British power and British colonialism.  Among others, these battle honours include soldiering in the Peninsula campaign (in Spain, against Napoleon) in Egypt, South America, the Battle of Toulouse, the Indian Mutiny, the Zulu War, aand the first Boer War. A few small detachments were sent to Crimea, where individual troopers may have participated in the Charge of the Light Brigade.

I also see that when they were in Africa some went on the Gordon Relief Expedition, (on camels apparently)   As we know they arrived too late to save poor Gordon.  I also see they also took part in the Dongola Expeditionary Force, as part of Lord Kitchener’s reconquest of the Sudan. Obviously,  later, they fought in that mother of all wars, WWI.                                          Anything for a quiet life, eh?

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We mentioned at the head of this piece that all of the posters were plastered around Ireland,bar one.  Here above is the exception.   As you see it is from Tyneside, in other words from Newcastle in the north of England.  I don’t pretend to be an expert but I see that the Tyneside Irish were an infantry brigade raised along the lines of the “Pals Battalions” – in other words from among closely connected communities.   In this case it was from the men in the Newcastle area of Irish extraction.  (there would have been many thousands of Irish origin or Irish extraction, and of course the same story in London, Liverpool, Manchester, Glasgow and so on)   This particular regiment was all but wiped out, many, many hundreds of them, as part of that epic tragedy known as the Battle of the Somme. (July-November, 1916)   It lost so many men the regiment was effectively disbanded.  One can imagine what this loss did for the Newcastle-Irish community.(or ratherof course, one can not imagine )  Naturally the same obliteration was happening to hundreds of other regiments across the army, of other Pals regiments, other communities, from all regions and nationalities, English, Irish, Welsh and Scots.   The British army, which had originally used the Pals Regiments as a very successful recruitment ploy, abandoned it when it became clear that some communities had lost nearly all their men.

Heard enough?    Okay, here are just two more for you.

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Look at this little exhibit above.   Bear in mind that 80% of Irish people were pretty sick of British rule in Ireland, a big majority wanted Home Rule at the very least, and there was a radical but significant minority who demanded nothing less than a full, seperate, independent Irish Republic.     In such an atmosphere, appeals to a hearty “Let’s all be British-together” type-spirit were unlikely to go down well.   And the army knew it.  But they also knew the majority of Irish people were devout Catholics.   So, what better than a picture of Catholic church or cathedral in Catholic Flanders, “desecrated” by the filthy Godless Hun?    There were also plenty of lurid reports in the newspapers,  about the hun raping Belgian and French nuns.  Also-  (I seem to recall form school history)  news reports of them impaling people on their bayonets (orphans, kittens and puppies as well probably) to go along with this sort of poster.   This sort of propaganda very often had the desired effect.  It drove recruitment.   Most of it was nonsense.  Or lies in fact.  However, the Germans did, definitively, commit atrocities in Belgium and France, including shooting unarmed civilians.

In the end…

So many soldiers were killed that the army had to keep up their recruiting drive.  Most British people still belived in the War, although they were weary and sick of it, and sickened by the loses.  There was more skepticism in Ireland, which was naturally more distinct, and more politicised, even radically politicised, than other parts of the British Isles.   But there was another factor, tragically, that kept Irishmen volunteering, and that was simple economic necessity.  Ireland was far less industrially developed than other parts of the British Isles.  (Partly, it has to be said, as a result of English trade laws imposed in the 17th and 18th century)  Fighting could mean you died in a cold, muddy field, trapped on some barbed wire while the germans shot you to pieces with their machine guns.  But at least it was a job, with room and board….

Nonetheless, there was a huge amount of skepticism about the war effort, and who it would ultimately benefit.   The more radical strain of Irish nationalists, in particular, worked hard to dissuade men from joining up.   The clumsy, brutal and inept British response to the 1916 Dublin Easter Rising, (executing all the signatories of the declaration of Independence and several others, bombarding the city centre with heavy artillery, and the murder of the unarmed pacifist Sheehy-Skeffington, by a mad army captain)  all played right into the hands of more extreme “physical force” Nationalists..  Ireland saw the war of Independence a year or so after WWI.   Ireland (or 26 counties of it) shook free of Britain, gaining de facto independence, barely 3 years after the tragic global events of 1914-18.

Here is our last poster below.   Or rather,  here are two posters, nearly the same.    Play spot-the-difference.  As you’ll see,  the one on the right was doctored at the time,  to make a political point.   I’m not sure i agree with the people who doctored it.  The First World War was an immense tragedy o sacrifice and horor, but it was not a waste in the sense of being “meaningless, or “futile or “all for nothing”  Maybe it was a war worth fighting after all.  But then again,  I don’t know.  It’s all extremely complicated, to say the least.  But I hope you found this post of interest. Feel free to leave a comment.   Alternatively, there’s a World War One Walk, tomorrow, Sunday 30th March 2014, to raise money for the homeless charity Focus Ireland.  Meet point  the Campanile in Front Square Trinity College, at 13.45 (1.45 pm)   Suggested contribution €15, all proceeds go to Focus Ireland.  Join us there.
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Copy-write Note:  all the above posters and images are from, and courtesy of,  the Irish army Museum at Collins Barracks, (the National Museum) in Dublin.  They may not be further reproduced or used in any commercial manner without prior written consent from that body. 

There is a further series of related images (WWI  recruitment posters) to be seen on the excellent Trinity library website, just follow this link.

If you would like to book or simply join one of our unique,  sociable and highly informative tours, go to Dublin Decoded  to see the tour menu and then hit an individual “tile:” to see more information on individual tours and tour dates.

Remember if you are in a group of 4+ people, you can simply book your own tour, any of the Dublin Decoded tours.  All you do is drop is an email anytime, with your preferred dates and choice of tours to  dublindecoded@gmail.com

If you’re solo, and you’d like notice of scheduled tours, to which all and everyone is welcome, the best strategy is to Like and follow the Dublin Decoded Facebook page where we announce all up-coming walks and tours.

and/or follow  “Arran Dublin Decode” on Twitter, upcoming walks and tours announced there too.

 

Saint Patrick’s History, 4: Richard Boyle, earl of Cork, power, politics and intrigue in Elizabethan & Stuart Ireland.

In a series of three seperate earlier posts, we’ve looked at the history of Dublin’s cathedral of Saint Patrick’s, from the early Christaina era,  in one post, to the Viking ear in another, and finally to the Anglo-Normans, and “the story of the two cathedrals”.

It’s all a long, immense, complex web of religious and civil politics, spanning from early “Celtic era” saints, to Viking warriors; from Plantagenet kings to Norman archbishops.   Congratulations to those who managed to follow the story,  in all its machinations, twists and turns so far!

Today, we’re going to have a look at the famous Boyle memorial, an enormous, commemorative sculpture, commissioned by Richard Boyle, first earl of Cork, in memory of his beloved second wife Katherine.

Where is it?   Well, let’s imagine we’ve just walked into the cathedral, through that double porch from the bending lane known as St Patrick’s Close.  Just through the second, inner door, we look first to our right, where the great nave of the cathedral opens up, (below)  its looming vaults soaring overhead.  Between the columns we can catch glimpses,  of tombs, statues and memorials, of arches and stained glass.  Naturally we are eager to see them all.   We shall be traveling that way soon, I promise,  in future posts.   There are scores of treasures and stories here to enjoy.

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But today we’ll look in the other direction.  Because before we blunder into these great spaces, and maybe miss something, while we are still by the doorway, we first take a look hard left.   Over there we spy an enormous monument.    Our curiosity piqued, we saunter over to the subject today’s post, the superb, massive multi-layered mid-17th century Boyle memorial, carved in wood.

This vast memorial was commissioned by Richard Boyle, first earl of Cork, to  commemorate himsefl and his second wife Katherine, the mother of his fifteen children.  He and her are depicted on it, along with various other members of their large family.   The figures of the earl and his wife lie in recline at the centre of the memorial, inside the recessed space,  you can just make out his face in the niche below.  The piece has much to tell us about the man who commissioned it, and the turbulent, often violent politics and conflicts  of late 16th and early to mid-17th century Ireland.

The sculptor was Edmond Tingham, whose workshops were in Chapelizzod, on the western reaches of the banks of the Liffey, west past the gates of Phoenix Park, for those who know or have visited Dublin.

In Italy or France, this work would probably be in marble.  But here it is in wood.   The artistry is perhaps not stunning by French or Italian standards, but personally I somehow prefer these works of the Northern Renaissance.

But is the piece even Renaissance?   Well, yes and no.  By date perhaps, yes. And there’s no doubt either that Tingham would have been partially aware of some developments in the great world beyond Irish shores.   But – if you’ve read my Egyptian piece “Ripples of History” – you’ll know the Renaissance came late to Ireland.  So, even though this work dates from the 1600s, it is still carved and conceived in an almost medieval mindset and sensibility.  Ireland in the late Renaissance was a new developing colonial outpost, carved out through guile, grit and blood by ambitious men.  Men like Richard Boyle.

Boyle’s memorial to his wife may lack the sophisticated art, anatomical knowledge and learned polish of continental artworks from the era.  The figures are stout and homely.  It may look clunky, even naïve to some eyes.  But strangely perhaps, I almost prefer such works these days.  One gets jaded with too much sophistication!   Besides, there is plenty of gritty history here.

Nor does the work lack vigour, in its strong composition, its power, vivid colour  sheer bulk and immensity.  Indeed by all accounts it reflects the character of its patron, Richard Boyle, earl of Cork, scion of an old family perhaps but a ruthless self-made man as well, a land-holding magnate, a fighting warrior type, and sire of an immense brood.

I read quite a lot of late 16th and early 17th century history.  But even the most cursory glance at Wikipedia will tell you what an extraordinary man Boyle was and the dangerous and turbulent times he lived thorough and somehow managed to not just survive in, but to prosper.

He was born in Kent in England.  There he attended the local famous school, the King’s school at Canterbury.  Curiously he not only attended this school, at the same time, but later attended the same college (Corpus Christi) at Cambridge University as Christopher Marlowe, the famous playwright, poet, and spy,

Marlowe was author of Tamburlaine; Edward II, and, of course; Doctor Faustus, and a contemporary and literary rival of Shakespeare, who greatly respected him.  (Marlowe was a more educated man, especially in the classics)

However Marlowe met  an early, violent death in very mysterious circumstances.  He was stabbed in 1593, in a pub in Deptford.   At the same time as the Star Chamber, the highest authority in the land, was looking for him.  Marlowe’s early and murky death undoubtedly cleared the stage for Shakespeare, who duly inherited Marlowe’s mantle as England’s pre-eminent dramatist and tragedian.

It was this same shady, ruthless, often bloody world of ambition, politics and intrigue that Richard Boyle now entered and embraced.  If you think modern politics are “cut throat” well, hold on to your seat.  There will be blood.

After Cambridge, Boyle went on study law at London’s Middle Temple.  Then he made his way to Ireland, just one of many Elizabethan-era, “new-English” adventurers to seek his fortune there.    For non-Irish readers, “New English” is our Irish term for this new, protestant generation of Elizabethan and Jacobean English, (in contrast to the Anglo-Norman era, Catholic “old English”)

There would be plenty of politics, intrigue, violence and real-life adventure in Boyle’s career.  He probably married his first wife -Joan Apsley for wealth.  It worked to get him started, gaining him estates, income and valuable connections.    After her death, and in sharp contrast, he almost certainly married his second wife Katherine Fenton, for love, if reports, the size of her memorial here in Saint Patrick’s, or indeed of their vast brood are anything to go by.

Boyle was criticized for the perceived cynicism and opportunism of his first marriage.  In fact, in general Boyle clearly alienated many of his New-English contemporaries in Ireland.   Several highly placed officials did their best to convict him on various charges and he was briefly imprisoned at least once.  Most seriously, he was even accused of colluding with England’s Spanish enemies. In this age of the Armada and religious war, this was an extremely dangerous charge.  If substantiated, it certainly would have seen Boyle beheaded for treason.  Much of Catholic Europe loathed Elizabeth, while Protestant zelots and loyal allies, like her spy master Sir Francis Walsingham,  were equally prepared to do anything to protect her from threat,  or assassination, or England from invasion.

Boyle planned a return to London, to justify himself to the Queen or her representatives and clear his name.   But events in Ireland would intervene first.   Ireland at this time was a pot of simmering ethnic and religious tensions, stoked to boiling point by locals’ land losses to the early plantations, just getting started in earnest, especially of course in Ulster, but also in tracts of Munster, where Boyle’s own estates around Cork and Bandon were a case in point.

A brief digression here about this generation of colonial English and Scots adventurers in Ireland.  You (we) may not like them but their exploits were extraordinary.  From the mostly English plantation-generation in Munster alone, we have Boyle, a bit later Sir William Penn (founder of Pennsylvania) and Sir Walter Raleigh, (the explorer and buccaneer who went to the new world and apparently brought back some odd discoveries from there.

Unfortunately, Raleigh’s New World finds did not catch on.  (Who remembers or has really heard of “tobacco” now?  Or for that matter that forgotten strange ground-growing vegetable reportedly called “the potato”?)

It was Raleigh’s estates, incidentally,  that Boyle bought in County Cork.    Boyle had to build or maintain 13 castles, to defend the territories.  It was that sort of world.

For students of English literature, the poet Edmund Spenser – author of The Fairie Queen- was also in Munster around this same time, as a civil servant in the colonial administrator.  Oh, and Boyle earl of Cork’s own son, Robert Boyle, is recognized as the father of modern Chemistry. Among other feats, he’s the author of Boyles Law of Gasses.  (It is quite likely, that the small figure of the youngest child on the memorial, in the photo above, depicts Robert as a boy.)

The predominantly Presbyterian Scots-Ulster planters in the northeast were equally prolific to their Munster counterparts.  Several ventured further to the New World and by the mid-19th Century, a sizable number of American Presidents (e.g. Andrew Jackson; James Knox Polk; James Buchanan) were of Scots-Ulster decent.     Anyhow,  here ends today’s obligatory digression!

Whatever their later exploits and distinctions,  the circumstances for such planter types Ireland, no matter how ruthless and determined, did not look promising in late 16th and early 17th century.  Local resentments soon turned into open insurrection.  Gaelic rebellion in Munster soon laid waste to Boyle’s estates around Cork.  Without the necessary funds Boyle was temporarily unable to travel to London to clear his name.

A while later however the exact same antagonism and accusations forced him to London, where he returned briefly to legal practice to gain some income.  But at this same period in London, Boyle was touched by the world of very high politics, as he was taken into the services of the earl of Essex.

Essex, the handsome and courtly Robert Devereux, was famously Elizabeth’s favourite (remember Bette Davis and Erol Flynn in the old classic, absurdly rosy,  The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex?)

In real life Essex was a far more complex and probably far darker character.  He had served well in his early military career in the Netherlands.  Now he courted and flattered the elderly queen, for his own ends and ambitions.  She liked his looks and easy charm.  The queen’s favour brought him a far more senior command in the campaign in Ireland, where he would fare far less well.

Meanwhile back in the late 1590s in England, even in London, and even with this powerful new patron, Boyle still seemed surrounded by enemies, including some within the frightening “Star Chamber”  which was to sit in judgment of him, (as they had intended to do with his old school contemporary Marlowe.)

Boyle’s prospects did not look good.  But he escaped this trap when he somehow managed to have the Queen Elizabeth herself present.  He then managed to convince her of his innocence, his loyalty and his worth.

Even better, she granted him a commission in Ireland.   Soon Richard Boyle was back was back in Ireland, exonerated, untouchable for the time being, annoying people and generally throwing his weight around, and soon,  heavily involved in the 9-Year War.

Yes, various small acts of local simmering resentment and hostility towards the pushy English outsiders, had now turned into a full-scale war.

This, the famous 9-Year War was the last great push of Gaelic Ireland, against the English and their hated Plantations.

The leader and figurehead in all this was the massive figure of Hugh O’Neil.  He- the Great O’Neill, was the most powerful Gaelic Lord in Ulster.  In the English system O’Neill was earl of Tyrone but -far, far more importantly in the ancient Irish system, he was the O’Neil – a de facto title in the old Irish clan system.  And  O’Neill, having long played with the English, was now fiercely resisting them.

O’Neill  (portraits above and below)  had accepted titles and had given his (feudal-style) submission to Elizabeth, in return for guarantee of his lands, under the Tudor system known as “surrender and re-grant”.  But O’Neill was not impressed with an English-style title like the earl of Tyrconnell.  He hardly considered himself some ordinary, petty baron.  He came from kings, from the great and ancient Sept of the O’Neills, who had been high Kings of Ireland for time immemorial.

He treated, and was treated, as a Prince in the states of Europe.   Most of all, deep down, O’Neill did not like these vulgar, nouveau riche newcomers coming in and grabbing land from his neighbours.  His whole people, his entire culture and history, looked to him for leadership.

His distant kinsman and ally, the earl of O’Donnell, from the neighbouring Gaelic O’Donnell kingdom in Donnegal, and also the powerful Maguire clan, felt much the same way.   Before too long they stopped playing games and pretending to like the English.  They were soon in open rebellion.

Dangerously, treasonably and very frighteningly from an English perspective, they were also courting an alliance with London’s mortal Spanish enemies,

Specifically they courted the king of Spain, the arch-devout-catholic monarch of Europe, Phillip III of Spain, (above)  a powerful monarch with vast resources as his domains included Spain itself; Austria, the highly developed Netherlands, and the Philippines, as well as the vast resources of gold and silver-rich South America.

But even prior to the arrival Spanish assistance, things in Ireland for the English in the Nine Year War were going from bad to worse.   Hugh O’Neill and his allies already defeated several English armies sent to tame him.  In March 1595,  he made light work of the army of Henry Bagnel, routing it at the Battle of Clonibert in County Monaghan.

Then an enormous Gunpowder explosion ripped apart the centre of Dublin in 1597, destroying the city centre and obliterating scores of people. Then in August 1598, O’Neill destroyed a second army,  killing 2000 English soldiers at the Battle of Yellow Ford.

It was now obvious to London many more men and resources, and vast amounts of money needed to be thrown into the fight in Ireland if the crown was to Prevail.

At this stage, 1599, Boyle’s patron, the ever-ambitious earl of Essex, talked himself into the job in Ireland, as Lord Luietentant and military commander of crown forces.  But, even equipped with 16-17,000 men (a very large force then)  Essex did not do much better.   From an english standpoint, he wasted time and men in expeditions south of Dublin,  instead of marching to in Ulster to confront O’Neill directly.

When Essex did finally attempt to face O’Neill, he’d lost so many men to dysentery that he was forced into signing a compromise treaty that many in England would regard as a failure or even a humiliation for the crown.

Essex then returned to England.  He did this without permission, effectively abandoning his post, and so was promptly put on trial.   He was partly exonerated but never regained his power and influence at court.  He was also stripped of the trade monopoly (for sweet wine apparently) and thus the income necessary to support his lavish lifestyle.

This humiliation, allied to his relentless ambition, later led Essex to the extreme desperation of trying to to lead what seems to be some sort of badly-organized coup.    It quickly spluttered out,  failing miserably.  Essex was tried a second time.   This time there was no reprieve.   He was convicted by a jury of his peers and duly lost his head on the block, the last-ever person be executed at the Tower of London.

But by now the English had ther things on their moind.    Now came the news they’d been dreading.   The Spanish now sent military help to assist O’Neill.  Their ships lay at anchor off  Kinsale,  in Co. Cork,  (hard by Richard Boyle’s estates of course.

This was another Armada in its way, and almost as dangerous to England.  The O’Neill and O’Donnell forces now made the long, hard march south to join forces with the Spanish and make common cause with their catholic allies to destroy the English and their colony in Ireland.    But it was a long and difficult march.  It gave the English, travvelling from Dublin, time to reach Kinsale first.  This little map below shows the route taken by the O’Donnell army from Donnegal.

The English, with the new commander Mountjoy,  rushed south to meet this joint menace.  They reached the south cruvcially before the Gaelic army from Ulster.  The English and Montjoy now besieged the town of Kinsale, which the Spanish forces had occupied and done their best to fortify.

When the Gaelic armies arrived, muddy and exhausted, the two sides clashed at the battle of Kinsale.   Even when the O’Neills and their allies arrived they could not link up with teh Spanish, and were themslves exhausted and far from their Ulster territory and powerbase.   Ultimately the English managed to prevail, and the besieged Spanish survivors surrendered.

I have read that Boyle himself able to deliver this news to Elizabeth.   If so, it would have been breathless news to deliver.    This was a pivotal moment in British and Irish history. True, there would be later heaves against England in the Confederate war and Cromwellian  period, and again in the Williamite War.  But these would by confederations of Old English type Irish and Gaelic Irish, as uncomfortable and mutually supsicous allies and often with teh gaels as “junior partners”   The 9-Year war was the last great push by Gaelic Ireland, acting alone to oust the English.    And they had lost.

There was no doubting who was now in the ascendancy.   The colony and protestant interest in Ireland was preserved for the foreseeable future.

In sharp contrast, Gaelic Ireland was spent force.   O’Neill, and O’Donnell, did hang on a while longer. But now they could not even adequately defend their own territory, as the English rampaged through Ulster.  The Irish Nine Year war was all but over.    Within a few years the great Ulster earls, increasingly hemmed in and under ever-greater pressure,  were forced to give up,   They, with their close kin and retainers, all set sail, for exile in Spain, an event known as the Flight of the earls.

As noted there would be one more, last final heave for the remnants of aristocratic, Gaelic, catholic Ireland later, towards the end of the 17th century, called the Williamite-Jacobite war.  But I’ll tell you all about that some other day, later on our tour of the cathedral.

And what of Richard Boyle?   With his lands around Cork, Kinsale and Bandon safe, the Plantations accelerating, his Cork estates finally secured, and the Gaelic menace seen off,  that seems to end the first, eventful chapter of Richard Boyle’s life.   But there was plenty more drama and conflict to come.

Elizabeth, “the virgin queen” died soon after the battle of Kinsale.   She childless of course so was succeeded by the first Stuart monarch James I of England (also James VI of Scotland)  James continued the hated policy of Plantation.

Tough old Richard Boyle outlived both Elizabeth and James.  James was succeeded by his son, Charles I.  ( Portrayed in the image below, painted by the Flemish master, Sir Anthony Van Dyck).

here begins another belligerent chapter in old Richard Boyle’s pugnacious career.

Boyle’s political struggles would continue under this new realm, Charles I was the third monarch Boyle lived under.   Life was not really about to get any quieter.

Boyle was of course first earl of Cork.   The earl, often reckoned to be the richest man in Britain and Ireland at this point, had a high notion of himself.  Bizarrely his huge wooden memorial to himself and his wife once stood directly behind the altar!

It was moved to its current location on the insistence of the earl’s arch political enemy, from this later stage of colourful career.  This was Thomas Wentworth, earl of Stafford (1593-1641).

Wentworth/Stafford was King Charles’ Viceroy in Ireland, a determined, ambitious and driven man.  Stafford and the archbishop of Dublin Laud both despised Richard Boyle earl of Cork.  Both were delighted to have his memorial moved from behind the altar to a less glamorous location near the West door.   Obviously this was a symbolic gesture, meant to humiliate the earl, but there were also far higher stakes at play.

Stafford was determined to force through reforms in Ireland.  He was harsh and unpopular in Ireland but he served Charles loyally and well, doubling customs duty, getting rid of piracy and raising an army .

Feeling secure in his position, he was not afraid to trample on local sensibilities either.  The earl of Cork was just one of many powerful enemies Stafford made, both in Ireland and back in London, where the restive Puritans and parliamentarians also cordially loathed him.

Boyle, predictably, was instrumental in Stafford’s bloody downfall, testifying at his trial when he was finally abandoned by his royal master and thrown to the wolves.  Stafford was duly impeached in front of a vengeful parliamentarian.

The Boyle family incidentally, never forgave the Cathedral for allowing of their memorial to be moved.  I’ve even read that even over a hundred years later, they refused to help pay for any restoration work, unless it was restored to its original position!   It never has been moved.

But Stafford fared far worse.  Having flown very high as Viceroy and as favourite and key advisor to Charles, he was later cynically, cravenly abandoned.  After much heart ache and brest beating, Charles sacrificed his loyal Viceroy.   Wentworth was tried and impeached by the Parliamentarians.  He was beheaded in 1641.

Charles’ cynical sense of self-preservation and expediency did not save him in the long run.  England was slipping ever closer to civil war.   Charles lost the war.

He himself was tried and impeached, and famously lost his royal head, in that extraordinary, unthinkable act, of regicide, at Whitehall, in January 1649.

Boyle had died a few years earlier, in 1643.   At the time, he had even gone to England, having temporarily lost his lands,  in the Irish Rebellion of 1641, one of many upheavals in this most bloody and endlessly complex era of Irish history, and all tied up with the equally complex series of bitter rolling inter-related conflicts in England, Ireland and Scotland.

But Richard Boyle, that thrusting dynastic-minded opportunist, that vulgar political pugilist, that grabber of lands and favour, sometimes called “the first colonial millionaire” and “archetypal adventurer”  would have pleased to learn of events after his death.

He  claimed to have founded the town of Bandon, a blatant lie,  but he did import the iron works there and import and establish also the colony of settlers there over from England.  To this day there is a protestant community in pockets of Cork, and most notably in Bandon.  The church of Ireland (Anglican) Bandon Grammar School is still thriving,  founded 1641 by the earl of Cork.

40 years after the Battle of Kinsale, when Ireland had seemed pacified or at least subdued, trouble erupted again, with the bloody Irish rebellion in 1641.  Bitter fighting would continue over the next 12 years, and perhaps a third of the population would perish in that period- a story we shall tell in the next post.    But Boyle would have pleased by one thing at least.  As the initial stages of the local part of the rebellion was put down, with the vigorous actions of his sons, they regained the family’s Munster estates within a few short years.

The family have this vast wooden behemoth to the memory of their kin here in the cathedral.  In a place where Archbishops, Field Marshalls and Dukes are all interred, it is still the largest memorial in Saint Patrick’s.

Rumour says they still won’t contribute to its upkeep!

Oh, if you have read the piece above, please leave a comment below.   Thank you.    If you would like to book or simply join one of our unique,  sociable and highly informative tours, go to Dublin Decoded  to see the tour menu and then hit an individual “tile or Post:” to see more information on individual tours and tour dates.  Rave reviews and new testimonials, of both our Dublin History walking tours, and our famous How to Read a Painting workshop (twice a month at the National Gallery of Ireland)  appear regularly on TripAdvisor.  Reviews can be seen here. 

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Remember if you are in a group of 4+ people, you can simply book your own tour, any of the Dublin Decoded tours.  All you do is drop is an email anytime, with your preferred dates and choice of tours to  dublindecoded@gmail.com

If you’re solo, and you’d like notice of scheduled tours, to which all and everyone is welcome, the best strategy is to Like and follow the Dublin Decoded Facebook page where we announce all up-coming walks and tours.  And/or follow  “Arran Dublin Decode” on Twitter, where we also announce upcoming walks and tours.

To Read is to Fly

arranqhenderson:

A particularly good series of photographs, by one of the best photographers in the world, Steve McCurry. This set are on the theme of reading. You may recognize some of the locations. Either way, revel, soak up, enjoy…

Originally posted on Steve McCurry's Blog:

“To read is to fly: it is to soar to a point of vantage which
gives a view over wide terrains of history, human variety,
ideas, shared experience and the fruits of many inquiries.”
 – A C Grayling, Financial Times
(in a review of A History of Reading by Alberto Manguel)

DSC_2998_esBrazil

I have always imagined that Paradise will be a kind of library.
- Jorge Luis Borges

TURKEY-10212Turkey

There is no frigate like a book 
To take us lands away, 
Nor any coursers like a page 
Of prancing poetry. 
This traverse may the poorest take 
Without oppress of toll;
How frugal is the chariot 
That bears a human soul.
- Emily Dickinson

DSC_8680_esLondon, United Kingdom

01734_06_esShanghai, China

_SM17860_adj; Havana, Cuba; 2010, CUBA-00018 Cuba

00038_18, Serbia, Yugoslavia, 11/1989, YUGOSLAVIA-10127.Serbia

BURMA-10711Burma

We read to know we’re not alone.
-  C.S. Lewis

USA-10880United States

DSC_3030_esCape Town, South Africa

ETHIOPIA-10221Ethiopia

India, November 2007,India

BRAZIL-10103Brazil

When I get a little money I buy books;
and…

View original 240 more words

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cartography, Image & iconography from the City of Lights. Paris by map & era.

Drafting an ultimately never-to be-published post for this blog recently, I found myself wanting a map of Paris.

Although I didn’t know exactly what type of map i wanted, I felt that like like the perfect house, or the perfect mate, I’d recognise it when saw it.  Something with a visual dash, for sure.  It would have a certain, oh I don’t know, a certain je n’est ce pas. I thought, (both tautologically, inaccurately, and pretentiously)

But Not some regular dull Google map type-map.  Oh no.  Rather it would be map of great style and elegance.  A map that drank deep of ancient history. One with a knowing and seductive style.  A map that sipped patis and smoked Galois.  Yes,  with a look of sage, weary wisdom in the eyes, siting enigmatically, in some old, fin de siecle café.  A map that reeked of elegance and style,  of eclat and elan, of joi de vivre,  and that ineffable, Parisian type of chic.

Sorry, where was I?    Oh yes. Anyway, I did some web picture research, looking for the perfect Map.  And here are some of the lovely things that turned up.  They are offered up here, below, just in case it pleases you to see them.

I hope that you enjoy.

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The maps above and below, are the earliest I found. The one above is Early Renaissance.  1422 to be exact. I love the way the original Roman city, on the Isle de Cite, even this date,  still represents a sizable chunk of the city overall. (Not so today, more of a spot on the map, even in central Paris) .  Yet Paris by now was already the largest, most populous, prosperous and intellectually important city in western Europe, home of the greatest university and centres of theology.   London had yet to compete, Rome, capital of the Papal States, still diminished by its centuries-long decline.  Madrid didn’t even exist.  Nope, Paris ruled supreme.

 

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This Map above is from significantly later.  nearly three hundred years later.  From 1705.  This is no longer a medieval city but a Renaissance city.   In simple physical terms, you can also see how much Paris has swelled. After decades of aggressive expansion by Louis le Gran. (Louis XIV) France overall had also swelled.  It was now defintely the dominant state in Europe, its boarders enlarged with territories, taken off nearly all its neighbours.  The land is rich, the aristocrats, the church,  and merchants rich, the theatre, literature, academies, its artisans, craftsmen and artists, all the best in Europe.  And God, did they know it?  The capital reflects this preeminence.  And arrogance even? Mais bien sur.    Et le state?  Le state?  C’est moi.

 

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Well into modernity here.  Paris after Haussmann.  You can see much of the medieval fabric and street scape has gone, in come the wider avenues and streets.  Still the centre, of a highly-centralized nation, and capital of a self-aggrandizing state, and now an overseas Empire to boot.   This isn’t really a true map of course, it does not look “straight down”  But (for exactly that reason) you have to love the 3-dimensionality of it.

 

Next..

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I don’t have a date for this one above.  On first glance you might guess 19th, even late 19th century, just because of the colours and the style of printing.  But then look, lower left of the map, at the S and west part,  and see how the Military school, ecole militaire” basically les Invilides area, (near where the Eiffel tower would also stand from 1878)  is all well outside the built-up central area.   Surely this was no longer the case by the late 19th century?  Or gosh, I don’t know, maybe it was the case.  (Any French or Parisian reader here who would be kind enough to enlighten me?)

That’s all the historic maps i have for you today.  But then, I thought,  you might also enjoy these postcards below too.  Because they’re all postcards that have some sort of ambition or pretension to be a map.  In their more cheap and cheerful, lighthearted, democratic sort of way, they too, all mark the passing of the ages, and changes in economy, perception, in style and taste.

This map below for example, is anxious to be useful.  It wants to be a postcard, yes,  but it’s also hoping you buy it and start using it as a map.  But has it made a fatal error?  Is the text too small?

 

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I will say one thing for this map above.    It’s very good at showing you where the main rail lines and the main termini, the great railway station of Paris are located.  Suspiciously good?    Was it commissioned by the state railway SNCF?

I honestly don’t know, I found only this image on the web and have ever seen the obverse.  But look at those huge orange-brown lines, (the railways)  in both the North and in the South east of the city.  Screaming about the railway lines and stations,  non?    Still, all in all, a jolly charming little postcard I thought, what?   Also, if you wanted an overall images to know where the Parks were…     Again, this postcard would be your only man.

These next, these last few map-postcards, all highlight the 20 different arrondissements of Paris. Many also show the happy tourist the top sites, where he or she should go.

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I particularly love this one above. As you’d expect, the classic sights:  the Eiffel Tower, Montmartre and Notre Dame, all feature large.  But there is also a notable pride in the modernity of Paris. Look at the tower of Monparnase. How many American tourists wold you think, from Chicago and New York say, would really want to go to Paris and visit a skyscraper?   Pretty few i imagine.  But the French just don’t care.   They love the modern and the new, the French.

This postcard looks old.   But yet,  it features the Grand Bibliotéque National, which means it isn’t all that old.  So the postcard itself, despite its love of the new, looks kind of dated.   And that irony, is its great charm.  Vive le France.

One more final thing about that image above.  Look and find the little red spot in the centre, near Notre Dame. With just the word “Here”  and an arrow.  Do you think this post card was a complimentary gift,  from a hotel in that area?

 

Okay, time for another.  What about this one below?    Cute or coy, kitsch or hideous?   What do you think?   The garish, sweetshop colours, and fake hand-painted water colour look are all bit much for me personally.  But everyone is entitled to their own taste.  The artist clearly has no interest in the south of the city, so he has just indulged himself in paintings of wine and food there instead  Look at that bulging picnic hamper.   This postcard was sponsored by the French marketing board of food and wine perhaps?  Who knows?

 

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Right, here’s another…

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A crazy collection of images.  Some landmarks need no introduction, but what is that glass tunnel lower right?  (les Promenades Plantes?)  Or for that matter, the building beside it?

and why is there a clock, handbag, and a pair off shoes in the frame?      Why is there a jolly fat man, stuffing his face on grass, and why has he thrown his baguette to one side? (or is it tying to escape?)    A postcard-map full of mystery, methinks.

Right, this one below is my favourite i think…

STOCK SHOP, Tiny Paris Map

I like the completely slap dash way the whole thing has been casually tossed off, with a little skill but minimal fuss or effort.  It took me a while to realise that black mess in the middle is the glass pyramid in the courtyard of the Lourve.   Nonetheless, the notion of chic is what is being emphasized here, of effortless, Parisian style. Look at that lady walking her little dog, for heaven sake…

 

 

 

paris-arrondissements-map

 

This one above is just trying to show you where the arrondissements are.   Well, hardly “trying exactly” – it does it very clearly.  Even tells you its doing it.   A Bit dull though.  A map-postcard of limited ambition.  Rates strong on clarity though.

 

Not as strong as this one however….

 

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You are most unlikely to be hazy on the layout of the arrondissements if you have this little item with you.

I like the 11th, 10th and 3rd  arrondissements best myself, since you are ask.

That is pretty much it.  Which map or card do you like best?   Always delighted to hear from you.

For Dublin-based readers of my blog, a quick reminder we’re doing our next walk of the old centre on Sunday 29th of June, walking Dublin castle, tracing the lines of the old medieval city walls, and finding the previous, now invisible location of the walls, watchtowers and gate posts.    As always we’ll be chatting and discussing,  reading and decoding the city as we meander.  if you are in Dublin that day, come and join us.  All details are on the Dublin Decoded website, here..

Thanks again for reading.

-Arran, at Dublin-(and sometimes Paris)-Decoded.

 

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Paris Pictures part ii: snakes & elephants, a morning at the Flea market.

A large part of the last full day in Paris is spent browsing the flea market at Porte de Clingnancourt.   In fact this is the collective name for a number of markets, each with a different character, spread over a large area.

As a whole Les Puces de Saint-Ouen  is very diverse, but as a whole, it’s the largest, and probably the oldest such market in the world.   I love old furniture, vintage design and flea markets, (who doesn’t?) so this is definitely one of my favourite things to do in Paris.

There are far better authorities than i to talk about “les Pulces” , how to get there, get the most out of it, how to watch your wallet, (beware pickpockets!)  how to find the best stalls and negotiate the best deals.  So i shall content myself here instead just with the things that grabbed me personally on this, my latest visit.

Here they are…

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This dealer (above)  specializes in high-quality vintage or early modern design, with the nice twist that all the design in her shop was made for children.  This chair (above, centre) was my personal favourite. I seriously considered buying it for my niece, as an addition to her small but well-chosen collection of early-modern design.  My niece is two and a half.

 

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Most of the shops in the market are small, albeit artfully arranged.  But inside these gates, ranged around this courtyard, are three or four much bigger outlets.   One of them, out of sight here to the right behind the gates, is the  Habitat 1964 (below) selling items that household giant first retailed from the late 1960s to mid-80s.    The shop was opened just this year, to celebrate their 50th birthday, in the middle of a self-styled “Designer-Village”

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Although i loved the feel of the building and the shop, I wasn’t that impressed in general with the supposedly “iconic” designs.  Some of the prices also seemed absurd. It is a beautiful shop space though, and I did warm to this unit, below, with its cut-out cavities for clothes storage and (one presumes) a seat.    Do you like it?

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In the middle of the same complex of shops around the same courtyard “village” was this outrageous stylish shop, Steinitz.  So stylish in fact, that I couldn’t really work out if the main focus was on selling antiques or on designer clothes.  Not that it matters.  Both probably.

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But the main emphasis is on clothes, right?

No, hang on, its more antiques, and objects d’arte.

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Like this whale vertebra.

or this elephant..

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and this tasteful, stuffed-Python microphone holder.

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Oh I don’t know.  But clearly, the Design Village is all terrible hip, chic and pricy.   But that’s not representative of the flea market area as a whole.

Outside this pricy little enclave, most of the shops around the area, are more standard, a mix of genuine antiques, pastiche, repo, retro, nick-knacks, bric a brack,  and pure solid tat.  Some of the real antiques are over-priced, but there’s a lot of value to be had too. My companion spotted a beautiful little French table, card-table sized, which was old, elegant, graciously proportioned and beautifully made, and still only priced around €350.  That’s before she even tried to bargain, which of course you should always do.  So you can find value here if you look around.

 

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Curiously, the one area of material you probably won’t find any out-standing value is among the early modern stuff, especially at market Serpente, which is for serious dealers and collectors of the period. On the other hand, some of the stuff is wonderful.  And of course, you don’t always have to own something to appreciate it.

Adjoining market Serpente, as you see in the picture above,  above is the market Paul Bert.  We thought that was a nice coincidence, because mile away, back in central Paris, we were staying on a little street called Paul Bert, named after the same man (a 19th century French zoologist apparently)   And, just around the corner from that apartment is another little street  (with a funky little bar called Chez Mamy, (that became a sort of home from home in the evenings)   That street is called after a 19th C writer and progressive radical, Jules Valle.

While still out in Port de Clignancourt, on the way to the metro to head back to central Paris, we came across this little school. Guess what the name was…

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Seemed like sort of fate or sign to me.  Just don’t ask me what it meant.

Thanks for reading.

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For a good general, introduction on the Port de Clingnancourt and a few good tips to get the best out of your visit there, try this site. Or for some expert tips on focused bargain-hunting, for clothes, bags and vintage accessories, have a look at this elegant little post by one of my favourite writers on contemporary Paris,  Theordora Brack and her elegant take on the City of Lights.  To read Theordora’s post on visiting another of Paris’ great Flea markets, the Porte de Vanves, see here.

 

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above: map of the Port De Clingnancourt area.

 

 

Les Puces de Saint-Ouen,
Les Puces de Saint-Ouen,
Les Puces de Saint-Ouen,
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Parks, potatoes, pullovers & the Promenade Plantée, pictures from Paris (days 1-3)

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Thursday.  Arrival,  into airport Charles de Gaulle.  I’ve never warmed to the older Terminal 1.   It’s a silly donut of a building,  Wastes your time. Terminal two is even more enormous, and thus equally alienating, with the important caveat that’s far, far more beautiful.

Later that evening, meet an old friend for supper.  A long-time Paris resident now, he freely admits he mostly settled there mostly for the food.  With his local expertise, we have dinner in a magic little restaurant on rue Paul Bert.  Where i eat the best asparagus, followed by the best Ossobucco, I’ve ever tasted.

Friday.

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morning of first full day, wandering out of the hipster paradise of the 11th, over to the nearby chic, streets and squares of the Marais. This gentle stroll included a quick look into this much-loved old friend, the wonderful Musée de Carnavalet.  If you haven’t seen that room inside, walls decorated with camels, monkeys and giant palms, well, next time you’re in Paris…

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very taken with this rather cool vertical garden.  Yep, it’s a garden.  It’s pretty big, about the size of a tennis court.  And it’s vertical.  Passing back this way later that evening, or was it another evening, I bought a nice sweater here.  Inside the shop I mean.   This is now my definitive favourite sweater.  I treat it, the sweater, with great reverence. I am secretly convinced i look like a film star when wearing it.

Ahh, the joys of self-delusion.   And who says things can’t make you happy?   The fools…

The tour continues,  past the Hotel de Ville.

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across a turquoise Seine, onto the Ille de la cité…

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where we pass this obscure church, below.  I’ve no idea what it’s called.

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On the far side of the river, we make a stop at the famous Shakespeare and Company bookshop on the quays of the Seine.

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Above: the tiny typewriter room, more of a covered alcove really,  inside Shakespeare and Company.   Typewriter used, one presumes, by the many, mostly American young aspiring writers who stay here, following their literary dreams and in the footsteps of their heros to Paris. Hemingway, and Stein, Joyce, Beckett et al.

It would be easy to rhapsodize about the history, traditions, and old bookish smells of Shakespeare & Company.   Equally easy to don a cynic’s hat, and to pour scorn on cliche and the literary-heritage industry.    So I shall desist.  On both counts.

In truth, I’ll always have a soft spot for S& Co.  A long time ago, I found a job off the notice board here.  Long story.  God that’s a while ago now….

Years later, went back to have very good poetry reading here once, think it was in ’05, glasses of red wine by the river and some really good poetry.  Back still when old George Whitman was still alive.   he kindly gave us all wine.   I’ll always remember one particular poem.  It was called: “The case for not speaking French in Paris”.

Sigh…   Sorry.  What is it about Paris and nostalgia?

 

Anyway, sorry.  On with the tour.   Over to Sainte Suplice.

Looking upwards, inside the glorious gloom of that huge church.

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This is the second largest church in Paris, the great soaring vaults only fractionally smaller to Notre Dame.  Sainte Seplice was deliberately, symbolically, just made an inch or two shorter, in deference to Notre Dames’ status as the city’s cathedral.

Go see the Delacroix pictures, Jacob wrestling the Angle,  in the side chapel.  And the genome of course.

Personally, I also liked this exhausted looking crab, at the base of a baptismal font.  Or the font for holy water.  Some kind of font anyway, which is made of an enormous clam,

with this marble base below

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Why does the crab look so sad i wonder?  You’d have to feel for him.

 

The rest of the afternoon,  is spent sitting on rather excellent sun loungers,  soaking up in the early evening sun in the Jardin de Luxembourg.

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After a long dreary Irish winter, it’s spring at last, here at least.  The sun is a balm to the soul.

The evening is spent on the long walk home, with pit stops for glasses of wine, and pernod,   The later remainder of the evening is spent slumped, exhausted but happy,  at a very cool little bar back in the 11th.  More wine, more Galois and pastis.  Et bon nuit.   That was Friday.

 

Saturday.

explore local area, all around the 11th.  Directed by Simon, my old friend at dinner the evening before, explore this super food market, both the much larger area of stalls outside and this charming old 19th Century covered section.   With my mis-spent 20’s lived just off las Rablas where I was lucky enough to have the legendary Bocarilla as my local food hall,  I’m something of an old covered-market aficionado, or snob.  From Barcelona to Buenos Aires, I do like a good market.   This one is nice. Image

The pleasures continue on the stalls outside, a riot of colour saturation, and the massed pleasures of fruit, fish and veg.

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Everywhere one looks one is reminded of one of the main reasons for the superiority of French (or Italian or Spanish cuisine)  over more, well, free market anglophone “cultures”  – primarily the endless, fresh, local, seasonal, ingredients.  You don’t find tomatoes like this in Tesco’s.  Oh no.  This is a culture and heritage worth fiercely protecting.  Vive la France.

Being Irish, (and thus obsessed with potatoes) i was especially taken with this stall below

 

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I asked the stall holder how many types of potatoes did he sell?   He mentioned a figure north of 100.  I asked, (i can’t remember if it was in my unspeakably bad French, or in my best TEFL-teacher-internationally-undertsandable English)   if there were even really 100 varieties?   He gave me a pitying look and told me  Mais oui, bien sur,   sure there are over 5 or (was it 6?) hundred varieties of spud. That was me told.      He was brilliant this man, basically.  Totally happy.  beaming, with pride, and detailed knowledge.  (Nothing, nothing, is simple, there is a lot to know about everything when you get up close)  He was absolutely passionate and happy about potatoes, beaming with passion and pride.  I loved him, basically.  There, I’ve said it.

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The walk continues.

The next find, and it really was an accidental find, stumbled upon it, was my personal highlight of Paris.  I can’t believe, am almost fuming, that i didn’t know about this place before.  Can’t believe I’m admitting that fact now either.

Basically, if you are very lucky, it will happen spontaneously.  One is walking along the street around here, you see a sort of ramp.  One walks up the ramp,

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and you’ll find this lovely sun-soaked little square.

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But this is only the beginning.  One spots another little flight of steps.  To find another square.  Then you go up again.  And suddenly you find you are on a sort of elavated walkway park.  Hang on, its not “some sort of elevated park”   It is a elevated park”,  an elevated, linear park.  WE had stumbled upon the a 4.7 km-long elevated park known as le Promenade Plantée  - built on an old disused railway line.    This railway line became disused in the late 1960s, but was then restored, transformed and planted through the 1980s.  The whole wonderful thing opened in 1993.

This, le Promenade Plante, is first such park in the world, Ive since learned.
New York has one too the High Line, which i had heard of but never visited.  Chicago has one too these days, the Blomingdale Trail, which I’d say is wonderful.   But Paris was the pioneer of linear, elevated urban parks ,built on old railway lines.   They are a very good thing.

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As always with these things, the concept is brilliant but the quality and attention to detail is equally important.  Here, the choice of planting, the paving, boarders, and detailing. are all brilliant.   I loved this whole  thing.   Walking with another friend that day, we followed it for miles.  I love the different perspectives, the way you are above the streets and the unexpected way you bisect streets,  seeing boulevards high above the road, crossing terraces at 3rd floor level.  All quite odd and brilliant.

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At one stage there is a bridge that crosses over a park.  There you can descend.  And sunbathe,  or eat ice cream, or drink coffee.       Or all three.

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This place also makes me deeply happy.

Days 4 and 5 will be coming soon,  to a blog post near you.

Until then, thank you for reading.

To read more from the  Wikipedia entry, about the wonderful Promenade Plantée of Paris, see here. 

Thanks for reading.  Hope you’ll joi me next time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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So, you’re a writer?

arranqhenderson:

Yep, this about sums it up.

Originally posted on H. G. Robert:


Synopsis:

“So, you’re a writer?” by H. G. Robert is the must-have self-help book for every wannabe writer and unemployed poet. The different chapters provide an exclusive in-depth look on why most authors are unpublished or a self-published flop. The brutally honest narratives are followed by 200 tips on overcoming keyboard constipation. Coming soon.

Reviews:

“So, H. G. Robert is a writer? It must be nice not having a real job…”

“Wow, H. G. Robert’s writing is 90% procrastination and 10% panic!”

“Um, H. G. Robert has a book?! I’d rather just wait for the movie to come out.”

Excerpt:

Why not be a writer?

Here’s why:

- it’s overrated
– you’re always alone
– it comes with depression
– people don’t read anymore
– writing degrees are expensive
– most writers are unpublished
– no money or stable salary
– no health insurance
– no future

Poetry ; Newspaper…

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